SNAKES & LADDERS

the Ups and Downs of the Coastal Path

By The Bimbler

So continuing from my ‘Keep Turning Left’ story I spent the night stealth camping at Kimmeridge Bay waiting for the duty officer to swing open the gates and allow me to walk the next stretch of South West Coast Path which cuts right across an active military firing range

By the time the sun popped up over the horizon I had a belly full of porridge in readiness for the full days walk ahead.

My feet had developed matching blisters overnight so I had to ease into my stride over the course of the morning.

Being blessed with such a fine day lifted my spirits and the stunning coastline elevated it even more

With the exception of sea birds there was very little wildlife to be seen on this stretch of coast.

I did chance upon this inquisitive adder but kept a healthy distance. We checked each other out for a minute or so then as it slithered closer I set off with renewed vigour up yet another flight of improbably steep steps. I took to counting them as I ascended and descended…this flight had 162 steps

Despite being incredibly picturesque the handful of small beaches were strictly off limits so I had to be content to admire them from a distance. Tank tracks in the sand served as a reminder that perhaps I shouldn’t stop here for lunch

Reaching Lulworth Cove marked the Western most point of the Firing Range and also the point where I became aware of other people… and realised I’d just spent a big chunk the day without encountering another soul

Hobbling over the hill from Lulworth Cove I was treated to the sight of Durdle Door, an iconic limestone arch which is a popular tourist attraction.

Even though there were only a dozen or so people there it seemed like Trafalgar Square compared to where I’d come from so I moved on and stopped at the nearby and wonderfully named ‘Scratchy Bottom’ which is a picturesque valley set on a cliff top. There were a few thistles on the ground which made me wonder… but they were no match for my solid sleeping mat on which I reclined and enjoyed a late lunch break followed by an afternoon nap

Once energised again I took off on the final stretch towards Osmington Mills.

This had been a 3 day adventure and I had lots of moments and experiences to look back on. The upside of heading off on an adventure carrying everything you need on your back is that as time progresses the food diminishes and fuel gets burned… so the pack becomes lighter as the journey progresses.

In much the same way the stresses we carry with us daily tend to become less of a burden simply by stepping out into nature and wayfaring for a day or two.

I almost crawled the last couple of miles to Osmington Mills and on arriving, discovered a pub called ‘the Smugglers Inn’. Limping in and failing to attract any sympathy from the attractive barmaid I consoled myself with fish and chips washed down with what tasted like the very elixir of life… a pint of real ale!